Mittenwald & Lermoos (Austrian Alps)

                                                     

Mittenwald

I wake up hearing cow bells.  However, looking out the window, I see sheep, not cows, running across the pasture. 

On our way to Mittenwald, we drive across the Austrian border and through Garmisch.  Upon arrival, the sun peeks through the clouds allowing us to view the mountains surrounding this ski town.  It’s a damp, cold, foggy day so any sunshine is welcome.  In stadmitte (the town center) there are many tourist shops, Konditeri’s (coffee & cake cafes), and a church with a beautiful steeple. 

The statue of Matthias Klotz

 in front of the

 Church of St. Peter and Paul

 in the Obermarkt, Mittenwald

There is also a large, wood sculpture of a violin—what this town is known for, a famous violin maker, Matthias Klotz.  This is a typical Bavarian town with many of the buildings having scenes painted on the front.  I purchase almkase  (cheese of the local area) and a piece of schwalzwalder  kuchen.   I notice that there are many "zimmer freis", or accommodations available, on the outskirts of the town.  

On our way back through Garmisch, we buy a cup of coffee and access the internet at McD’s.  Our zimmer does not  have internet. 

Enjoying Coffee at McDonald's McCafe

When we return to Ehrwald, we finally get a view of the Zugspitze.  It’s still cloudy and cold in the valley, but it’s sunny on the peaks.  When we were stationed in Germany, we skied on the Zugspitze—way up there on the glacier. 

Zugspitze Mountain

I convince Steve to take a walk in the valley across from our zimmer.  Yes, it’s cold.  But I find it refreshing.  The Zugspitze looks amazing as we’re walking.  Stopping by the creek, the ducks get out of the water and walk over to Steve.  However, they don’t like the dog biscuits he offers them.  Then, as we walk by the sheep, they also come running over to us.  I think they expect us to feed them.  I guess Steve is quite an attraction with his knit hat on.  Maybe they think he is their master!

At a local restaurant, one of the few that was open, we have Wiener Schnitzel and Jagerschnitzel.  We return to a warm apartment, watch the news about the imminent cold, wet weather throughout the country, and call it a night.

The Jagged Dolomites and Back to Lermoos, Austria

Breakfast Room in Hotel Almhof
in Castelrotto, Italy

Views of the Dolomites

After a delicious buffet breakfast (meat, cheese, brotchen, yogurt, granola, juice and coffee), we drive further into the Dolomites.  It’s a beautiful, sunny day.  The views are awesome.  The mountain tops are steep and very jagged.  The cows in the pastures have their bells on.

Unfortunately, we decide not to stay another night in the area.  We take the Brenner Pass into Austria and drive to Lermoos, Austria (just south of Garmisch).  To our dismay, we find many hotels, zimmers (accommodations in homes), and restaurants are closed.  This is the shoulder season—the time between summer and winter, when many businesses and families take holiday.  After searching for awhile, we decide to return to a place where we’ve stayed at many years earlier, Renate’s Guesthouse in Biberwier.  Her apartment (bedroom, kitchen & bathroom) is available, with breakfast, for 50 euros. 

Earlier in the day, when we drove into Austria from Italy, our weather took a sudden change.  We now had an overcast, cold day—6 degrees centigrade.  We have dinner at one of the only restaurants open in Lermoos (schnitzel), walk the town a bit and then settle into our warm apartment to watch TV in German and catch up on this blog.  I’m enjoying some Orvieto Classico vino and a piece of apple strudel—yum.

North Through the Alps with a Stop in the Dolomites

The Roman Colosseum in Verona

Are you for Real?

Our host at Villa Dolcetti has been wonderful.  He not only gives great siteseeing advice, he’s also been very gracious, making us many cappuccinos and Americano coffees in the mornings.  Following another buffet breakfast, we set off to the Dolomites.  On the way, we’re going to stop in Verona to see the Roman Arena.  We eventually find our way into the city and park outside the wall.  Within the wall, and the pedestrian-only walking zone, we find the Roman arena.  It’s not as big as the Colosseum in Rome, however, it’s still in a lot of its original condition. There are many tour groups here.  We make our way back to the car and at about 5 pm, I decide to get off the autostrada and head to Castelrotto which is located in the Dolomites.  Instead of taking the road for Val Gardena at the roundabout, we headed towards Castelrotto (or Kastelreuth on the Austrian map).  It was too late to turn around--we were committed.  Unfortunately, this road was steeper.  After many switchbacks, we arrive and get a room at the first hotel, Hotel Almhof.  We have a very large, modern room with down comforters and a balcony.  Having arrived at night, I can only imagine what the area looks like. 

In the hotel’s restaurant, we discover that German is the language spoken here.  Steve is relieved.  He can, at least, understand every other word versus no Italian.  In the restaurant, we order Schweinehauxe—pigs knuckle.  When we lived in Mainz, we would often have this dish.  It’s basically roasted pork.  Back in our room, we roll down the automatic shutters—such a great invention.  Wish we had these in our windows.  They not only keep the light out, they also eliminate any noise.  Guten Nacht!

Love Venice!

At this hotel, we have an included breakfast.  We down three cups of coffee each (they are small cups in Italy) and make our way back into Venice.  We enjoy a beautiful, sunny (but cool) day on the island just walking around.  It’s a laid back type of day.  We venture in and out of stores and churches and get lost on the narrow, back streets of Venice.  This evening we have dinner at a restaurant on the Grand Canal by the Rialto Bridge.  Steve has a margherita pizza and I have lasagna. We enjoyed our day in Venice.  Tomorrow we'll drive north into the Dolomites.

By the Grand Canal

Evening Along the Grand Canal

On Our Way to Venezia

Villa Dolcetti

We left our lovely, and very quiet, location in Chianti for Venice—without breakfast and coffee.  This morning was overcast but not rainy.  As we head north, we stop in Florence for gas and to buy more food at the COOP.   We continue past Bologna.  Using our trusty Rick Steves’ book, and plugging in an address to “Beatrice”,  we eventually find our next accommodation at Villa Dolcetti.
It’s a tastefully remodeled house that was built in 1635.  To say our room is opulent is an understatement.  I feel like I’m sleeping in a castle.  The walls are covered in a beautiful blue and gold fabric and the furniture is white, trimmed in gold.  Thank goodness the windows are double-paned with outside shutters because we are located on a busy street next to a canal.  It’s about a 25 minute ride into Venice by bus.  It costs 28 euros to park in the city. 

After dropping off our luggage and getting a cup of coffee, we take the bus into Venice.  Instead of taking the vaparetto (metro on water) in Venice, we decide to walk to Piazza San Marco following the signs on the buildings.  Traversing the narrow streets and bridges over the canals, and looking for the next sign proves to be a bit much for Steve.  He grabs the map to see where he is on this island ("where am I on the ground?")—the military side of him.   Upon arriving at San Marco, we listen to the orchestras in the piazza.  Free entertainment in a beautiful setting.  Since we’re not sure when the next bus leaves to go back to the hotel, we start walking back to Piazalle Roma—the central bus station.   The next challenge is watching where we are going on the bus at nighttime and making sure we get off at our stop.  Using the GPS to help guide us, we find our stop.  Yea, the grandparents made it back!

Montalcino and Castellina in Chianti

Our Room (on the left corner)
at Agri. Borgo Sicelle

Agriturismo Borgo Sicelle
Main Front Entrance

This morning Michella gave us a little history on the property.  She told us that the main house was built in 1934.  It was her parent’s house.  The house where we stayed was originally a place for the pigs and chickens (the bedroom).  She restored it 3 years ago.  This is very typical of an agriturismo.  The main house has an apartment upstairs with three individual bedrooms.  It is all very nicely decorated and very clean. Can't wait to return in the future and stay longer. 

After several cups of coffee, we set the GPS for Montalcino.  This hilltown has a fortress (4 euros to climb) and several wine shops—that’s about it.  I purchase some Brunello and Rosso wine and we’re on our way.  We decide to stay just south of Florence in the Chianti region.  I had pulled a listing off the internet for Borgo Sicelle, a few km from S. Donato in Castellina in Chianti.  A quick phone call told us they had availability.  This property has several large apartments with a swimming pool set on a hillside, once again overlooking hills with vineyards.  It just keeps getting better.  Our large apartment has a full-size kitchen, then two steps up to a large bedroom and then two more steps up to the bathroom.  It was a quiet, cozy apartment.  Franco and Silvia welcomed us with a bottle of wine that their father makes.  We walked across the street for dinner at Uscio E Bottega.  Steve was able to enjoy a beer since he didn’t have to drive.  He had lasagna and I had a couscous dish with veggies and chicken.  I enjoyed a glass of chianti.  Our “dolci” was a piece of chocolate cake.  It was our best dinner so far here in Italy. Lovely atmosphere and owners. 

A Relaxing Day at the Farmhouse and a Visit to Abb. M. Oliveto Maggio

Monastery

Wine Cellar at the Monastery

I guess we were tired.  We awoke at 10 a.m. to a beautiful sunny morning.  We have a lovely terrace that overlooks the Tuscany hills.  We enjoyed having our coffee and eating whatever is in our breakfast basket along with fresh eggs given to us by our hostess.  We take advantage of our weather and wash out a few things and strategically hang them in the sun.  There’s a chicken coop and garden nearby, along with young olive trees.  The oak trees remind me of my parent’s property.  My grandson would definitely enjoy the insect population.  During our brief stay, I must have seen at least a dozen varieties.  After all, it is farm country.  I don’t walk around the house without socks on (and neither does Steve)! 

We have a picnic lunch and then head out to Abb. M. Oliveto Maggio—a monastery.  In the church, a Gregorian chant takes place at 6:15 every evening.   As we drive through the towns toward the monastery, we’re also in search of a COOP--grocery store.  It’s Saturday and the stores aren’t open on Sunday.  The monastery is set off the main road in the forest.  By the church, there is a wine cellar for tasting and sales and a gift store.  The monks work in their own vineyard and sell the wine on site. 

This evening’s chant will be at 7:30 pm.  We are the only onlookers.  Inside the church, there are wooden sculptured stalls which have individual standing positions with armrests.  There were about 48 monks, each in their own individual stall, dressed in their white robes, responding to one individual’s “chant”.   After a half hour, the monks depart and we are told that the church is now closed—at least that’s what we think he said.  He quickly locked the door behind us. 

We arrive back at our house for beer, wine and a snack.  We’re the only people on the property tonight.  It's very quiet and peaceful. 

Glad this one is outside

Stink Bug!
Do Not squish these guys

All three of our heavy wooden doors close out the outside world, except for the bugs that manage to find their way in.  Oh, did I mention the large centipede that sent me screaming back to Steve?