On Our Way Home after Five Weeks

Vineyards in Rudesheim

Grapes for Ice Wine

We have a quick breakfast and then scrape the frost off the car—it is currently 0 degrees centigrade.  I talk to Rita about the grape harvest which is almost finished for the year.  The grapes for Ice wine (a very expensive wine), will be picked after six days of freezing temperatures.  This has yet to happen this year.  At this rate, I’m sure it will be soon—maybe this week. 

The trip to the Frankfurt Flughafen is uneventful.  Following the airplane signs makes it easy and convenient to stay in Rudesheim.  Depending on the time of day, it can take 30-45 minutes to get there.  After dropping off, and videotaping the rental car’s condition, we discover we’re at the wrong Terminal--American is in Terminal 1, not 2.  We drag the luggage on, and off, the sky train, check it in and find the Admiral’s club.  The front desk clues us in on what the procedure is for the VAT tax refund.

For future info, once you go through the passport control check, go to the right.  There is a red phone on the wall to the right.  Call passport control and ask to have a passport controller come to stamp your VAT refund forms.  They will come within 5 minutes.  Sometimes the controller will ask to see the items to verify the form and purchases.  If the item is in your checked luggage, you might have an issue (we had some of our purchases with us).  We lucked out—they didn’t ask to see our loot.  If you want your refund now, you have to go back to the B area of the terminal.  However, you can also send your stamped forms from the States and have your refund put back on your credit card. 

Our nine hour flight into Chicago was good but very long.  Since Steve has platinum status, he had reserved seats in the exit row of economy class.  The leg room is like business class.  You are able to stretch out.  Upon arrival in Chicago, we pick up our luggage and go through customs which was very easy.  We just dropped off our form and walked on through.   So, all of our loot, including 10 bottles of wine, made it through with no problems.  We rechecked our luggage and then found out our flight was delayed because of high winds.  At 7:44 pm we boarded for a four hour flight into Santa Ana.  It was on this flight that I realized we were missing a carry-on bag with Christmas decorations, my pink West Point rain jacket, and Steve’s zip-up sweater vest.  I guess we were really tired.  You store your items in the overhead bins and you forget, after nine hours, what is where.  Upon arrival in the OC, we file a claim with lost and found.  Three days later our lost bags were recovered.  The Nuremberg angel will adorn the top of my daughter's Christmas tree this year and for years to come.

Last Minute Shopping in Mainz and Our Last Night in Rudesheim

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Shopping in Our Former Hometown of Mainz

Our breakfast was a pleasant surprise.  Lots of good meat and cheese, along with plenty of brotchen.  Bacharach is a lovely, small town to stay in, however, the roads (narrow, crowded & under construction) and the proximity to the airport (about 65 km) is not as easily accessible to the airport as I would like.  Rudesheim, on the other side of the Rhine and in the vineyards, has direct autobahn access to the Frankfurt am Main airport. 

Before making our way to Rudesheim, we go shopping in downtown Mainz.  The city, along with others in this part of Germany, have changed in their ethnicity.  There is a middle-eastern influence. 

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After visiting the cathedral, we have coffee & apple strudel in the town’s market area.  It was in this plaza that I would buy fruits, veggies and flowers most Saturday mornings when we lived here in the 70’s.  It was also here that I would shop at the small, beautiful Christmas market each year.

In order to convince ourselves that we have sufficient luggage to bring home our purchases, we repack our cases at the car.  An hour, or so, later, we set the GPS for Rudesheim.  This side of the Rhine is more scenic with lots of tudor-style buildings, and wineries, alongside the river.  Many years ago, Melissa and I stayed at a zimmer way above Rudesheim and among the vineyards.  I hesitated to make Steve drive up there, however, the accommodations along the Rhein are more expensive and full of tours.  Rita, at Haus  Zoth, had a room, with bath, available for 46 euros.   (Later I found out that you can stay at the abbey for 55 euros.)

Benedictine Abbey of Saint Hildegard  in Rudesheim am Rhein

On our way to dinner in Rudeshiem, we get lost and find ourselves further north on the Rhein at a restaurant in the next town.  This restaurant is heavily decorated with wine artifacts.  Grapes, wooden figurines (men holding wine glasses), and plaques are in every nook and cranny.  We enjoy our last dinner of ½ roasted chicken and pommes frittes. 

Bacharach

It was raining when we left Rothenburg this afternoon.  We stopped at the Christmas store for one last purchase.  As you travel from country to country, and city to city, you sometimes wish you had purchased that one item.  You know you’re not going to find it in the next city, or country.  It is unique to that area. 

Malerwinkel Pension, Bacharach

After a brief shopping trip and visit to McD’s, we’re on our way to Bacharach, getting closer to Frankfurt for our departure on Tuesday.  Even though we’re driving at an average of 120 km/hr.,(and still getting passed on the left)  it takes us three hours to get to Bacharach.  The hosts at pension Steeger Tal, where we usually stay, are not home.   This seems to be typical during this time of year.  We do, however, find a room at Malerwinkel Pension.  The building is 300 yrs. old and is situated outside of the town’s turm, away from the train tracks.  It turns out to be a quiet location.

Enjoying Apple Strudel

Bacharach

Cafe Restaurant Rusticana

We walk into town via a pathway from the pension’s back entrance.  

We return to a restaurant we ate at on our last trip--Cafe Restaurant Rusticana.  The owner was sitting at a table, by herself, at her computer playing solitaire.  We order Jagerschnitzel and ½ roasted chicken and entertain ourselves, and our hostess, with conversation.  Her English is perfect and is a joy to talk to.  She is a race horse enthusiast and owns several champions.  She shared a photo of her champion mare who had won a race in France on June 26, 2010.  Her husband was also in the photo.  He passed away five days later.   After a long visit with our friend, we walk down the street to a local winery’s restaurant and tasting room.  We enjoyed tasting eight progressively sweeter white wines for eight euros.  Having lived in this area for three years, we are biased to German wine.  Of course, the Spatlese and Auslese, sweeter wines, appeal the most to us.  Now we just have to walk “home”. 

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Jagdschloss Pension

Happy Birthday to my Brother, Tom!

Our apartment at Jagdschloss Pension in Nordenberg (50 euros), 5 km from Rothenburg, is so nice and comfy, we decided to stay another night.  We gas up the car (65 euros—ouch) and spend time shopping in Rothenburg.  Surprisingly, many of the stores on the back streets are closed.  There are several tour groups and Steve finds some to talk to while I’m in the Christmas store.  It’s a nice day to walk around.  It’s cold but not raining.  When we return to the apartment, I take a walk in the town and Steve does his retirement thing (or just plain tired thing)—relaxing.  Later, I drag our bags and goodies we’ve accumulated up to the room and start pre-packing to make sure it will all fit.  Thank goodness two bags can expand a few more inches.   However, I have two bottles of wine I may have to leave behind (I’ve packed ten).  I didn’t realize I bought so many.

Regensburg to Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Walhalla Temple and The Walled Town of Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Happy 2nd Birthday to our Granddaughter, Lauren! 

With a low of -2 degrees centigrade this morning, it was no surprise that our slanted attic windows in our room and our car had frost.  No snow.

As we drove into Donaustauf yesterday (on the outskirts of Regensburg), we noticed a very large temple structure on the hill.  You could see it from everywhere--it dominates the valley.  Our hotel host said that it is Walhalla Temple, built by King Ludwig I.  After breakfast, we drove to Walhalla.  Since it is undergoing reconstruction on the exterior and refurbishing on the interior, we did not go inside.  However, we did walk around it.  It is massive.  Steve found it interesting in that it was constructed on the side of a steep slope—not on top of a hill.  I found the following info later on the internet since we could not get a brochure in English. 

Massive Walhalla  Temple

Walhalla Temple

The temple is a hall of fame that honors laudable and distinguished Germans, famous personalities in German history — politicians, sovereigns, scientists and artists of the German tongue".^[1] The hall is housed in a neo-classical building above the Danube River, east of Regensburg, in Bavaria, Germany. to remind the Germans of the country’s great people in their history. The Walhalla temple is named for Valhalla of Norse mythology. It was conceived in 1807 by Crown Prince Ludwig, who built it upon ascending the throne of Bavaria as King Ludwig I. Construction took place between 1830 and 1842, under the supervision of architect Leo von Klenze. The temple displays some 65 plaques and 130 busts of persons, covering 2,000 years of history — the earliest person honored is Arminius, victor at the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest (9 AD).

After touring Walhalla and visiting McD’s, we set out for Rothenburg ob der Tauber.  The zimmer we usually stay at is closed—gone on holiday.  However, just up the road we get an apartment at Pension Jadgschloss.  It is very large with a balcony.  We drive into Rothenburg for dinner and a walk - it is 3 degrees (Steve is pleased - NOT).  We find a restaurant that serves Jagerschnitzel--yea.   Steve has been unsuccessfully searching for this dish at restaurants the last several nights.  It’s lighter than a Wiener Schnitzel.  I was not going to eat another picnic style dinner in our hotel room. (Steve figures time spent eating is less time spent meandering in the cold.)

Moonlit Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Even though it’s cold, 2 degrees, it’s nice to walk around the town at night without all of the tourists.  The lit up, tudor style buildings are beautiful in this walled town.  We take the Nightwatchman’s tour and remember when we took the tour with Sean several years ago.  We have been in this town many times and each time new experiences and memories are made.   We were here during our military tour and with our parents in the 70’s, later with our kids and now, once again, by ourselves.   I’m sure I’ll be here, again, with my grandchildren.

The Beautiful City of Regensburg

                                                        

Regensburg Cathedral

After breakfast, we decide to go to an area we haven’t been to on previous trips.  Regensburg is northeast of Munich, towards Nurnberg and the Czech border--about 140 km away.  We’re driving in pouring rain and it doesn’t look clear ahead of us (only behind us, of course).  We find Hotel Walhalla on the outskirts of the city in the town of Donaustauf.  After we check in, we drive into the city.  It reminds me of Prague.  The rain has stopped and we’re able to walk around the city. St. Peter’s Cathedral and its spires dominate the city skyline.

Built in the 1300s on the site of earlier cathedrals, Regensburg Cathedral (Dom St. Peter) is the finest Gothic building in Bavaria. Its exterior, alive with interesting medieval sculptures, has recently been fully cleaned. Inside are even more sculptures along with an extensive collection of medieval stained glass.

There is a 12^th century bridge over the river Donau with a turm at the city entrance, and beautifully restored buildings in the pedestrian only zones.  This city is in Bavaria and is very picturesque and fun to walk through. 

Bridge over the Danube

As we’re walking through town in search of a German restaurant, it’s getting colder.  It’s predicted to get down to -3 degrees with possible snow.  It could be an interesting morning.  Thank goodness for Beatrice (our GPS).  She gets us home safely in the dark. 

Salzburg to Munich with Magnificent Views of the Bavarian Alps

View from Our Pension

Looking out of our balcony doors this morning, we see the mountains blanketed with fresh snow.  Such a pretty sight.  Thank goodness we don’t have snow on the ground—at least, not this morning.  At breakfast, we talk to several other guests, an Air Force Major and his family, and a mother and daughter from Athens.  When you have breakfast in a large room, you tend to meet people and find out about their travel plans. 



After another great breakfast, we set the GPS for Munich.  By the way, our Garmin Nuvi 270 is still trying to “locate satellites”.  She’s been searching for the last 5,000 km. 

By going to Munich, we’re trying to avoid the predicted snow for Salzburg, but stay another night in Bavaria.  Of course, as we’re driving, we’re headed into a rain storm and it’s sunny behind us.  The alps are on our left and they are full of snow.  So lovely.  We’re usually here in the summer, so this is a special treat to see.  Our hosts have said this is early for such cold weather. 

The Bavarian Alps

We find a room at Haus Bauer in Gauting, southwest of Munich.  Melissa & I stayed here about 15 years ago.  Our attic room is o.k., but a bit overpriced.  However, an early check in allows us to get into the city.  As we’re walking to the S-bahn station, it’s windy and cold.  Unfortunately for Steve, the weather doesn’t stop me.  We figure out the ticket purchase (an all day ticket for two) and the S-bahn routes and board the next train that takes us into the city.  I’ve been to Munich many times, so I’m somewhat familiar with the pedestrian-only shopping street location.  We finally find the pipe shop I was looking for and purchase a few more for Steve.  Walking along a back street, we see a memorial for Michael Jackson.  It is set up around a statue in front of a hotel where the star stayed while in Munich.  We talked to the young ladies who maintain the memorial.  There are many pictures of Michael, angel & bear figurines and lit candles on all sides of the statue.  The girls said that every once in a while someone will destroy the memorial and then they have to re-create it.  Such dedication.

Tribute to Michael Jackson

Marienplatz, Munich

Later, Steve visits McD’s, to keep warm, while I shop in the rain.  After the stores close, we visit the Marienplatz and wait to see the Glockenspiel figures perform at 9 pm in the rain and cold.  It turns out to be uneventful.  We brave the cold weather back to our hotel room and cuddle up in our comforters. 



Salzkammergut Region of Austria

Once again I have lost my Rick Steves’ tour book.  We head back into town retracing our steps but to no avail.  Since we’re going to spend another night at Haus Ballwein and it is a sunny day, we decide to drive to the towns of Mondsee and St. Gilgen located in the Salzkammergut region. 

Basilica Sankt Michael in Mondsee

  The Basilica in Mondsee is where the marriage scene from the Sound of Music was filmed.  The interior, especially the altar, is beautiful.  Lake Mondsee is set among the snow-capped alps.  On our drive back to Salzburg we drive the white roads taking in the scenery—rolling hills with cows and lots of mountains.   The hills are alive with the sound of music.

Salzkammergut

Back at our zimmer (hotel), we take a walk in the area.  Moosestrasse has a variety of housing—working farms, apartments, homes and gasthofs/zimmers.  It is a perfectly straight, narrow, lovely street flanked on both sides with large, overhanging trees for about three miles. This area will definitely make it in my book of places to stay.

Romantically Beautiful Salzburg

                                              

Haus Ballwein

Moosestrasse, Salzburg

Since we’re south of Salzburg, we decide to check out zimmers on Moosestrasse (recommended by Rick Steves).   We secured an apartment at Haus Ballwein by 10 a.m. and we were on the bus into the city at noon (bus stop is in front of the zimmer).  This is a first for us!  Salzburg is a very easy, compact city to roam about in.  Steve plants himself at McD’s while I go shopping and explore the city.   The daily market has lots of great things, however, you can only purchase so much to bring home.  Plus, there are restrictions on food items.  We do, however, find a Tabak shop and purchase another pipe for Steve.  I also find a print of Salzburg to add to my collection at home.  Bus #21 takes us back to our zimmer.  We drive into Grodig, have dinner and meet another group of Canadians.  Steve had his fourth meal of wiener schnitzel and pays for it the next day—too much oil.

Looking out of our balcony window, we see a deer roaming around the garden.   Here, on the outskirts of Salzburg, the stars are very bright and the night is still and quiet.  Such a lovely location. 

A Visit to the Nazi Documentation Center Museum and Adolf Hitler's Bunkers

A Wonderful Baker's Breakfast

As predicted, our breakfast was great.  There were many types of bread rolls and several cakes, cheesecake and a loaf cake, along with the usual meats, cheese and soft-boiled egg. We are still fogged in this morning.  




On our way through this village, I see the youth hostel I visited last night.  Just for future info, this hostel has family rooms and is set next to a meadow.  Their rates are 24.50 euros each with other additional fees. 

On the autobahn, we decide to take a detour from Salzburg and drive to the Eagle’s Nest (Hitler’s 50^th birthday present from his staff and featured in “Band of Brothers”)  located in the Berchtesgaden area.  In Konigsee, we stop at McD’s and send an e-mail with pics to the kids.

In Rick Steves’ tour book, we read that the Eagle’s Nest is located in Obersalzberg—Beatrice (our GPS) directs us there.  Because of snow on the mountain, the Eagle’s Nest is closed, however, the Documentation Center Museum and Bunker is open.  The tour, with the audio guide, takes 2 hours.  We only have 1 ½.  Running out of time, we decide to go to the bunkers.  I’ll turn this over to Steve.

We listened to the first 45 minutes (30 out of 80 panels) of the “why and how” of the Nazi “government” which was presented in a rather sterile, matter of fact kind of way (though very complete and I think accurately with “no punches pulled”; so to speak.  The meager resistance and the involvement of the church were just starting, but I wanted to see the physical bunkers.  It was “old news” to me anyway, but the artifacts on display were fascinating.  I listened selectively (and briefly) to the last few panels as I was being hustled out of the tunnels/bunkers about how the personal cost to the German families was huge, and that all the dead German soldiers died thinking they were fighting for the good of their country.

The bunkers were very sophisticated – though pointless (in my opinion).  As a defense against aerial bombing they would have been reasonably effective, but against infantry attack (which was highlighted referring to “triple machine gun port emplacements”) I think they would have been quite futile though not due to a lack of engineering design effort.

The displays are all in German (with audio guides for English) – I had the impression that the display was more for German consumption than “allied” consumption.  All in all, an interesting place. 

For myself, the museum and bunkers were extremely interesting.  The bunkers were enormous.  They were much larger (height and width) than I would ever imagine.  This visit was definitely worthwhile.  

Upon leaving the museum, we start our search for accommodations.  It’s after 5 pm and it will be dark soon.  We opt for a Gasthof.  It wasn’t what we were looking for; however, there weren’t many options. 

The Schlierzee Region and an Overnight in Josefstal

It’s another cold, foggy day  in the Zugspitze Arena.  However, the mountain tops are visible all around us.  It’s just beautiful.  After saying goodbye to Renate, we stop at Spar and stock up on picnic supplies—the stores are closed on Sunday.  It’s just now starting to rain. We stop at McD’s in Reutte, check the internet and have a cappuccino.  We’ve decided to drive to Salzburg going the northern route through Garmisch, up the autobahn a bit, then east through Bad Tolz.  We start looking for a zimmer in the Schlierzee region—another ski resort.  On the outskirts of Josefstal, we find Gastehaus Gritscher.  Our hostess offers us a large apartment for 60 euros, mit Fruhstuck (breakfast).  She also owns the Backerei next door so I’m sure breakfast will be great. 

A Wonderful Baker's Breakfast

Gastehaus Gritscher

Town's Church with Onion Dome

As night sets in, I take a walk in the light rain (it’s 4 degrees).  As I’m walking, the bells on the cows and in the church start ringing simultaneously.  Love it!  After a lite dinner, with beer and wine, of course, we call it a night. We expect snow at about 1,300 meters tonight--we're at 1,000 meters.  Burr!  Time to cuddle under our down comforters.

Mittenwald & Lermoos (Austrian Alps)

                                                     

Mittenwald

I wake up hearing cow bells.  However, looking out the window, I see sheep, not cows, running across the pasture. 

On our way to Mittenwald, we drive across the Austrian border and through Garmisch.  Upon arrival, the sun peeks through the clouds allowing us to view the mountains surrounding this ski town.  It’s a damp, cold, foggy day so any sunshine is welcome.  In stadmitte (the town center) there are many tourist shops, Konditeri’s (coffee & cake cafes), and a church with a beautiful steeple. 

The statue of Matthias Klotz

 in front of the

 Church of St. Peter and Paul

 in the Obermarkt, Mittenwald

There is also a large, wood sculpture of a violin—what this town is known for, a famous violin maker, Matthias Klotz.  This is a typical Bavarian town with many of the buildings having scenes painted on the front.  I purchase almkase  (cheese of the local area) and a piece of schwalzwalder  kuchen.   I notice that there are many "zimmer freis", or accommodations available, on the outskirts of the town.  

On our way back through Garmisch, we buy a cup of coffee and access the internet at McD’s.  Our zimmer does not  have internet. 

Enjoying Coffee at McDonald's McCafe

When we return to Ehrwald, we finally get a view of the Zugspitze.  It’s still cloudy and cold in the valley, but it’s sunny on the peaks.  When we were stationed in Germany, we skied on the Zugspitze—way up there on the glacier. 

Zugspitze Mountain

I convince Steve to take a walk in the valley across from our zimmer.  Yes, it’s cold.  But I find it refreshing.  The Zugspitze looks amazing as we’re walking.  Stopping by the creek, the ducks get out of the water and walk over to Steve.  However, they don’t like the dog biscuits he offers them.  Then, as we walk by the sheep, they also come running over to us.  I think they expect us to feed them.  I guess Steve is quite an attraction with his knit hat on.  Maybe they think he is their master!

At a local restaurant, one of the few that was open, we have Wiener Schnitzel and Jagerschnitzel.  We return to a warm apartment, watch the news about the imminent cold, wet weather throughout the country, and call it a night.

The Jagged Dolomites and Back to Lermoos, Austria

Breakfast Room in Hotel Almhof
in Castelrotto, Italy

Views of the Dolomites

After a delicious buffet breakfast (meat, cheese, brotchen, yogurt, granola, juice and coffee), we drive further into the Dolomites.  It’s a beautiful, sunny day.  The views are awesome.  The mountain tops are steep and very jagged.  The cows in the pastures have their bells on.

Unfortunately, we decide not to stay another night in the area.  We take the Brenner Pass into Austria and drive to Lermoos, Austria (just south of Garmisch).  To our dismay, we find many hotels, zimmers (accommodations in homes), and restaurants are closed.  This is the shoulder season—the time between summer and winter, when many businesses and families take holiday.  After searching for awhile, we decide to return to a place where we’ve stayed at many years earlier, Renate’s Guesthouse in Biberwier.  Her apartment (bedroom, kitchen & bathroom) is available, with breakfast, for 50 euros. 

Earlier in the day, when we drove into Austria from Italy, our weather took a sudden change.  We now had an overcast, cold day—6 degrees centigrade.  We have dinner at one of the only restaurants open in Lermoos (schnitzel), walk the town a bit and then settle into our warm apartment to watch TV in German and catch up on this blog.  I’m enjoying some Orvieto Classico vino and a piece of apple strudel—yum.

North Through the Alps with a Stop in the Dolomites

The Roman Colosseum in Verona

Are you for Real?

Our host at Villa Dolcetti has been wonderful.  He not only gives great siteseeing advice, he’s also been very gracious, making us many cappuccinos and Americano coffees in the mornings.  Following another buffet breakfast, we set off to the Dolomites.  On the way, we’re going to stop in Verona to see the Roman Arena.  We eventually find our way into the city and park outside the wall.  Within the wall, and the pedestrian-only walking zone, we find the Roman arena.  It’s not as big as the Colosseum in Rome, however, it’s still in a lot of its original condition. There are many tour groups here.  We make our way back to the car and at about 5 pm, I decide to get off the autostrada and head to Castelrotto which is located in the Dolomites.  Instead of taking the road for Val Gardena at the roundabout, we headed towards Castelrotto (or Kastelreuth on the Austrian map).  It was too late to turn around--we were committed.  Unfortunately, this road was steeper.  After many switchbacks, we arrive and get a room at the first hotel, Hotel Almhof.  We have a very large, modern room with down comforters and a balcony.  Having arrived at night, I can only imagine what the area looks like. 

In the hotel’s restaurant, we discover that German is the language spoken here.  Steve is relieved.  He can, at least, understand every other word versus no Italian.  In the restaurant, we order Schweinehauxe—pigs knuckle.  When we lived in Mainz, we would often have this dish.  It’s basically roasted pork.  Back in our room, we roll down the automatic shutters—such a great invention.  Wish we had these in our windows.  They not only keep the light out, they also eliminate any noise.  Guten Nacht!

Love Venice!

At this hotel, we have an included breakfast.  We down three cups of coffee each (they are small cups in Italy) and make our way back into Venice.  We enjoy a beautiful, sunny (but cool) day on the island just walking around.  It’s a laid back type of day.  We venture in and out of stores and churches and get lost on the narrow, back streets of Venice.  This evening we have dinner at a restaurant on the Grand Canal by the Rialto Bridge.  Steve has a margherita pizza and I have lasagna. We enjoyed our day in Venice.  Tomorrow we'll drive north into the Dolomites.

By the Grand Canal

Evening Along the Grand Canal

On Our Way to Venezia

Villa Dolcetti

We left our lovely, and very quiet, location in Chianti for Venice—without breakfast and coffee.  This morning was overcast but not rainy.  As we head north, we stop in Florence for gas and to buy more food at the COOP.   We continue past Bologna.  Using our trusty Rick Steves’ book, and plugging in an address to “Beatrice”,  we eventually find our next accommodation at Villa Dolcetti.
It’s a tastefully remodeled house that was built in 1635.  To say our room is opulent is an understatement.  I feel like I’m sleeping in a castle.  The walls are covered in a beautiful blue and gold fabric and the furniture is white, trimmed in gold.  Thank goodness the windows are double-paned with outside shutters because we are located on a busy street next to a canal.  It’s about a 25 minute ride into Venice by bus.  It costs 28 euros to park in the city. 

After dropping off our luggage and getting a cup of coffee, we take the bus into Venice.  Instead of taking the vaparetto (metro on water) in Venice, we decide to walk to Piazza San Marco following the signs on the buildings.  Traversing the narrow streets and bridges over the canals, and looking for the next sign proves to be a bit much for Steve.  He grabs the map to see where he is on this island ("where am I on the ground?")—the military side of him.   Upon arriving at San Marco, we listen to the orchestras in the piazza.  Free entertainment in a beautiful setting.  Since we’re not sure when the next bus leaves to go back to the hotel, we start walking back to Piazalle Roma—the central bus station.   The next challenge is watching where we are going on the bus at nighttime and making sure we get off at our stop.  Using the GPS to help guide us, we find our stop.  Yea, the grandparents made it back!

Montalcino and Castellina in Chianti

Our Room (on the left corner)
at Agri. Borgo Sicelle

Agriturismo Borgo Sicelle
Main Front Entrance

This morning Michella gave us a little history on the property.  She told us that the main house was built in 1934.  It was her parent’s house.  The house where we stayed was originally a place for the pigs and chickens (the bedroom).  She restored it 3 years ago.  This is very typical of an agriturismo.  The main house has an apartment upstairs with three individual bedrooms.  It is all very nicely decorated and very clean. Can't wait to return in the future and stay longer. 

After several cups of coffee, we set the GPS for Montalcino.  This hilltown has a fortress (4 euros to climb) and several wine shops—that’s about it.  I purchase some Brunello and Rosso wine and we’re on our way.  We decide to stay just south of Florence in the Chianti region.  I had pulled a listing off the internet for Borgo Sicelle, a few km from S. Donato in Castellina in Chianti.  A quick phone call told us they had availability.  This property has several large apartments with a swimming pool set on a hillside, once again overlooking hills with vineyards.  It just keeps getting better.  Our large apartment has a full-size kitchen, then two steps up to a large bedroom and then two more steps up to the bathroom.  It was a quiet, cozy apartment.  Franco and Silvia welcomed us with a bottle of wine that their father makes.  We walked across the street for dinner at Uscio E Bottega.  Steve was able to enjoy a beer since he didn’t have to drive.  He had lasagna and I had a couscous dish with veggies and chicken.  I enjoyed a glass of chianti.  Our “dolci” was a piece of chocolate cake.  It was our best dinner so far here in Italy. Lovely atmosphere and owners. 

A Relaxing Day at the Farmhouse and a Visit to Abb. M. Oliveto Maggio

Monastery

Wine Cellar at the Monastery

I guess we were tired.  We awoke at 10 a.m. to a beautiful sunny morning.  We have a lovely terrace that overlooks the Tuscany hills.  We enjoyed having our coffee and eating whatever is in our breakfast basket along with fresh eggs given to us by our hostess.  We take advantage of our weather and wash out a few things and strategically hang them in the sun.  There’s a chicken coop and garden nearby, along with young olive trees.  The oak trees remind me of my parent’s property.  My grandson would definitely enjoy the insect population.  During our brief stay, I must have seen at least a dozen varieties.  After all, it is farm country.  I don’t walk around the house without socks on (and neither does Steve)! 

We have a picnic lunch and then head out to Abb. M. Oliveto Maggio—a monastery.  In the church, a Gregorian chant takes place at 6:15 every evening.   As we drive through the towns toward the monastery, we’re also in search of a COOP--grocery store.  It’s Saturday and the stores aren’t open on Sunday.  The monastery is set off the main road in the forest.  By the church, there is a wine cellar for tasting and sales and a gift store.  The monks work in their own vineyard and sell the wine on site. 

This evening’s chant will be at 7:30 pm.  We are the only onlookers.  Inside the church, there are wooden sculptured stalls which have individual standing positions with armrests.  There were about 48 monks, each in their own individual stall, dressed in their white robes, responding to one individual’s “chant”.   After a half hour, the monks depart and we are told that the church is now closed—at least that’s what we think he said.  He quickly locked the door behind us. 

We arrive back at our house for beer, wine and a snack.  We’re the only people on the property tonight.  It's very quiet and peaceful. 

Glad this one is outside

Stink Bug!
Do Not squish these guys

All three of our heavy wooden doors close out the outside world, except for the bugs that manage to find their way in.  Oh, did I mention the large centipede that sent me screaming back to Steve?